DETAILS

Celebrating 5 years, Meryll Rogge presents her Fall-Winter 2025 collection with a first show produced by Profirst for Paris Fashion Week. This turning point is an opportunity to further connect fashion, space and performance, to consider garments through their architectural and decorative qualities. Exploring ideas of construction and deconstruction, of juxtaposition and ornamentation, the feminine and masculine silhouettes connect with the environment in a sensible yet complementary way.

Set in a Parisian building bearing the traces of centuries of successive additions and transformations, the collection embraces the rough poetry of derelict architecture: considering Gordon Matta Clark’s radical perforations of buildings, the act of cutting and reconstructing becomes a driving principle, a way to create a powerful and renewed perspective on familiar volumes or objects. Unearthing layers of materials and decorative schemes, it echoes the artist’s seminal book Wallspaper (1972) and its inventory of decrepit painted surfaces. Past memories are reactivated through random juxtapositions of textures and patterns in textiles just as the peeled and flaking walls suggest. An original soundtrack composed by David and Stephen Dewaele of the label DEEWEE furthers the site-specific experience from which the collection draws.

In collaboration with the Ghent-based specialty store PRIEM and their unique selection of 1930s to 1950s hand-printed wall papers, the show space becomes an immersive installation. The delicate silk-screened floral patterns shift from the interiors to the garment – their sophisticated color palette spread across the collection’s dresses, skirts and tops as prints and embroideries. Bonded textiles combine checks with satin and provide wools with newly found structural qualities: overcoats and blazers cut infused knit make for a novel take on menswear’s classic shapes. A striking exploration of superpositions forms a wardrobe made of contrasts as highlighted by a jersey t-shirt with cotton poplin sleeves worn under a vest-like top, or by pairs of sailor’s pants singularly left unbuttoned.

Quilted in a cotton-nylon mix, a series of padded volumes bring their nonchalant and rounded shapes and proportions to the architecture of the collection. A contemporary take on soft tailoring furthered by belted knitwear pieces and woven woolens highlighting the brands appreciation of the material which has been recently recognized by the International Woolmark Prize selection.

In keeping with the signature combinations of Meryll Rogge, sports and outerwear pieces coexist alongside evening gowns with sequined trims, embroideries and black ruffled taffetas. These seemingly impossible associations establish a true wardrobe in which practicality never fails to meet exceptional and ingenious craft.

CREDITS

Casting: Arthur Méjean, Artistry Global Agency

Styling: Esther Matilla Oubina

Make-up: Florence Teerlinck

Hair: Rachel Lee

Sound: DEEWEE

Décor: Elise Gettliffe

Production: Profirst